ONLY FOR EXPERIENCED MOUNTAINEERS: SCHRECKHORNHÜTTE 2529m

Tiina Kivelä

It was a weekend a few weeks back when last minute planning resulted in one of the best tours ever, a night at Schreckhornhütte, the destination for a bergwandern trail only for “experienced mountaineers“. Which I can’t claim yet. But you have to start somewhere, and when the signpost says “only for experienced mountaineers” there is a point when you keep going even without the experience. Because there’s the first time for everything.

Nevertheless, for a similar trip without the experience, I do suggest you either hire a guide or take along companions with more experience and skills; people who you can trust no matter what. On the SAC trekkingscale, our trail was level 4, which we made even more challenging by our timing, just before the official season. During the official season, the trails have ladders and wires to support hikers on their way, and the huts have service like food. This time we could only lean on our experience and pure courage. And good weather forecast.

MEET YOU THERE

On this trip, we were self-catered, both on the trail and in the hut, where only the winter room facilities were at our service. Nevertheless, it was one of the best trips I’ve ever done. Basically in my backyard, which I miss a lot now when in Zürich. It’s all good here, but no mountains or glaciers as easily accessible as there.

That Saturday, I decided to join the mixed group last minute. The first two of our group had left earlier for some glacier training; the ones I’m now used to follow almost everywhere. And then there were the two paragliders, flying the last part of the hike back on Sunday. And then there was me and my favourite couple (thanks for the ride L&A). It wasn’t an easy trip for any of us, though definitely worth the effort with the mountains and glaciers and views to Finsteraarhorn, the highest peak in Berner Oberland (4274 m).

Normally, when route descriptions say 3h, I can take appr. 1h off the overall time, but this tour proved that when it’s level 4, the 5h description was more than accurate. And so, leaving quite late on Saturday, first driving to Gindelwald and taking the cable car up to Pfingstegg (8CHF with SBB half-far travelcard, in 2017) from where the initial hike started, we finally reached the hüt just in time before dark.

On the way, we were “guided” by a steinbock couple and motivated by the desire to find our way to the cabin before sunset. Stopping briefly at Berghaus Bäregg on our way, to fill our water bottles, while the paragliders collected information of flying possibilities from there for the next day. And finally, after a bit scary and very challenging hike along the exposed path next to the Obers Ischmeer glacier, we met the first “group” around the corner of the cabin, just when the sky started to turn golden. And enjoyed a magnificent sunset with well-earned sip of wine.

Tiina Kivelä

HÜT DINNER IS A FIVE STAR DINNER, ALWAYS

This weekend, we got the whole hut to ourselves. Or not the whole hüt exactly, but the parts open as so-called winter room. There was even enough room to separate the snoring ones, which is a real luxury in mountain settings. Normally, the snores, smell and unknown people belong to the most authentic mountain experience. But here’s a reason I love the off-season in the mountains; fewer people, more space and authentic off-season luxury mountaineering experience, when the timing is right.

For dinner (which btw is always 5* up there, no matter what you are eating) there was wine and extra speciality in the form of porto bottle (extra points for people carrying wine in glass bottles up the mountains!). And then there were the steinbocks and marmots and the best people as company; what else can a girl ask for? There was laughing, there were challenges overcome with the help and support of others (lots of swearing too, I have to admit), and there was just pure joy mixed with the good kind of exhaustion.

MOUNTAIN THERAPY

After a good night sleep, there was my quiet morning yoga moment in solitude on the hüt “terrace” (well-needed with all the stress I’ve had related to the move and life changes in general), while two of us started their climb to higher mountains and others continued sleeping a bit later. And for some reason, I came back from the trip with one inner sole less of my amazing Lowa shoes. I have the feeling those curious marmots I saw that morning had something to do with this, or then it was just the tired me leaving it to dry in the sun eternally. Nevertheless, no matter what the initial reason, the sole has now been replaced by the lovely customer service of Lowa, and I can keep on going further and higher on these mountains.

Once again I have to say these really are the kind of days and nights I’ve learned to love the most. Going forward, going higher and learning so much. This time the biggest lesson was to learn how tall the crevasses of the glaciers really are. A humbling experience indeed. Obers Ischmeer and Finsteraarhorn were magnificent, especially seeing them this close. Walking past them and standing below them, I also started to think that maybe a glacier and/or mountaineering training course would be good to take at some point. Because no matter how scary, glaciers and high mountains are oh so tempting and I want to have more of them and learn more (and krhm climb a >4000m peak before I turn 30). Zürich is nice but… I guess I was spoiled by Berner Oberland so that now I can’t be too long a time away from the mountains.

Luckily though, SBB serves quite well, to the mountains and back. And these guys just keep on being themselves no matter where we meet. Though best enjoyed in the mountains.

Tiina Kivelä

Tiina Kivelä

Where: Schreckhornhütte SAC 2’650’592.125, 1’159’206.469, from Grindelwald


 


FI:

SCHRECKHORNHÜTTE

Amatöörialppinistin urani jatkui muutama viikko takaperin yökyläilyllä Schreckhornhütella parhaiden ihmisten seurassa. Reissu ei ollut helppo, viiden tunnin vaellus hüttelle ja takaisin nelostason alppivaellusreittiä pitkin veti hiljaiseksi, varsinkin seuraavalla viikolla. Seura sitä vastoin sai nauramaan ja hymyilemään niin että kaikki oli sen arvoista.

Ajankohta reissulla oli juuri ennen virallista sesonkia, joten hüttella oli avoinna vain talvi “huone” eli itsepalvelukeittiö, ulkohuussi ja muutama huone. Onneksi sentään enemmän kuin yksi, sillä näin saimme jaettua ryhmän kuorsaaviin ja ei-kuorsaaviin, tavallaan autenttisen alppikokemuksen vastaisesti. Yleensä kuvaan kuuluu ahtaus, kosteus ja tuntemattomien ihmisten kuorsaus, sekä aikainen hiljaisuus ja aikaiset herätykset. Ruokaa ja lisäpalveluita saa myöskin rahaa vastaan sesonkina. Mutta sille on syynsä miksi itse pyrin liikkumaan off-seasonia; vähemmän tuntemattomia ihmisiä, enemmän tilaa ja mahdollisuus luksukseen kun aika ja paikka sattuvat kohdilleen.

TEKEMÄLLÄ OPPII

Virallisen kauden ulkopuolella liikkuminen tarkoitti meille hieman haasteellisempaa matkaa, sillä huippusesonkia varten pystytettettävät tikapuut ja vaijerit eivät vielä olleet paikallaan kaikkialla ja hütte ei tarjonnut palvelua vaan jouduimme huolehtimaan 100% itsestämme. Tämä ei kuitenkaan ollut suinkaan hullumpi kuvio lopulta ja totesinkin lopuksi matkan (varsinkin alastulon) olleen haastavin mutta myös opettavin ja palkitsevin reissu ikinä.  Olimme ainoa seurue mökillä, joten saimme majoitustilat yksityiskäyttöön ja näin ollen viini ja porto (extrapisteet kavereille jotka toivat viinin ja porton lasipulloissa ylös asti!) saivat virrata hieman vapaammin, vaikka ensimmäinen parivaljakko ryhmästämme aloittikin seuraavana päivänä kiipeilynsä ennen kahdeksaa, melkein kuin oikeat alppinistit (vielä minäkin joku päivä, yli 4000m vuorelle, ehkä, toivottavasti).

Viime aikoina elämässä on ollut vähän liikaakin myrskyjä; uusia jännittäviä työprojekteja, muutto ja muuta “mukavaa”. Fyysisesti tämä reissu ei ollut helppo, mutta mielelle se oli sitäkin tarpeellisempi. Haastava reitti sai pään unohtamaan kaiken muun kuin sen kallionlohkeaman mihin tukeutua liukasta jyrkänteen reunaa kavutessaan, ja ystävät saivat muistamaan kuinka paljon elämässä onkaan naurun aihetta. Ja jäätiköt ja vuoret, Obers Ischmeer ja Bernin ylämaan korkein huippu Finsteraarhorn (4274m) saivat nöyrtymään ja asettamaan omat pienet ongelmat taas oikeisiin mittasuhteisiin.

Reissun paras hetki oli lopulta sunnuntai-aamu, kun veljekset lähtivät kiipeilylleen ja minä hiljennyin mökin pihalla auringonnousu,  vuoret, jäätikkö ja utelias murmeli seurani. Oli hiljaista ja niin hemmetin kaunista. Ystävää lainatakseni, juuri sosiaalisesti rajoittuneelle suomalaiselle sopiva hetki.

Sille on syynsä, miksi rakastan näitä vuoria niin paljon.